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        <description>Welcome to the Tartan 34 Classic Association forums.

These forums are now open for posting, please use a little common sense on where to post your accomplishments, questions, or headaches....</description>
        <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/index.php</link>
        <lastBuildDate>Sun, 20 May 2012 11:49:08 -0700</lastBuildDate>
        <generator>Phorum 5.2.14</generator>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6080,6080#msg-6080</guid>
            <title>Main sail? (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6080,6080#msg-6080</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
<br />
We're continuing with our restoration of hull #331 which we purchased last June. Just took inventory of our sails and realized that we don't have a main sail.<br />
<br />
Our plan has been to sail the boat with her current sails and rig this summer so we can get a feel for how she sails, and then tackle the rig and sails comprehensively next winter, including new sails, standing rigging, and potentially some changes to spars, etc all done together at that time.<br />
<br />
Therefore, we're looking to find a used main to get us by for this summer. She's a 1973 Yawl, so has the short boom. Anyone have one in decent condition that they'd be interested in selling?<br />
<br />
Many thanks,<br />
Matt]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2011 09:32:35 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6077,6077#msg-6077</guid>
            <title>Help selling an Atomic 5 (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6077,6077#msg-6077</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Folks,<br />
I am repowering Primrose (#113) to a Yanmar and want to sell the working Atomic 4 coming out.  Any thoughts where to do that?  Craigslist seems too general purpose. I would think the engine would be interest to only sailers with boats of a certain age.   Any guidance would be really appreciated.<br />
-Kevin]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Kevin Donohue</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 11 May 2011 09:36:25 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6068,6068#msg-6068</guid>
            <title>Crazing on the topsides and potentially &quot;peeling&quot; (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6068,6068#msg-6068</link>
            <description><![CDATA[On Full Circle, my 1970 Hull #116, I am starting to see evidence of crazing. The dark blue of the topsides was awlgripped in 1998 shortly after I purchased the boat. The blue has held up well. I buff it with 3M finesse and wax with a good carnuba wax each spring. Note that as I move along in years I think that the boat is growing. The yard that did the Awlgrip yard 13 years ago is a very competent yard. Although he, the yard owner,<br />
has not recently viewed the current condition of the hull, he has indicated that it is highly likely that it is crazing in the original gelcoat and either grinding off the gelcoat or peeling is most likely in order. Has anyone else had this experience. In particular has anyone seen this in your hull, awlgripped without a full grind down or peel only to have the crazing reappear within a couple of years (his warning if it is not peeled)<br />
The yard has been &quot;peeling&quot; older hulls for several years. For those that have not seen the process, it is performed with a hand held peeler that has a fine adjustment for thickness of the peel in thousand's of an inch. Done properly, the fairing after peeling is not significantly more extensive than normal fairing as a prep before Awlgrip.<br />
Anyone been down this road?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bill Jones</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 19 Apr 2011 05:00:17 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6065,6065#msg-6065</guid>
            <title>new TCA34 Website (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6065,6065#msg-6065</link>
            <description><![CDATA[17 April, 2011   -  Big News ! <br />
<br />
  In the next few days our new website will take a formal bow !  Like other sailing clubs (TONE and CBTSC among them), TCA34 is <br />
<br />
partnering with Club Express, a leading furnisher of website support to clubs and associations, to take our Web presence to the<br />
<br />
 next level.<br />
<br />
  Our goal is to turn the new site on around 1 May.  This old&quot;  site will remain up, but only as a host for the historical data on our <br />
<br />
Forums - this, in response to the value of Archived forum strings.<br />
<br />
     User names and temporary passwords for www.tartan34classic.org  will be emailed to all 120 + active TCA34 members  when the <br />
<br />
last few configuration details are taken care of.  <br />
<br />
    We have opened most of the new site modules to the public - including our new forums - Posting to the new forums will require the <br />
<br />
termporary password of an active member as mentioned above.<br />
<br />
    Many of your suggestions, hours of the past three months, and years of our experience with the 8 yr old Tartan 34 Classics Assn. <br />
<br />
TCA34s, have gone into this early stage of our new website.<br />
<br />
    I will take this opportunity to thank Tom Hart and Chris Crighton for their labors in setting up and maintaining t34classic.org over the past two years !  Well done.<br />
<br />
<br />
Now get ready for a new experience as a Tartan 34 Classic driver... www.tartan34classic.org<br />
<br />
                                                          .. try it, you'll like it. !<br />
<br />
<br />
  Dino<br />
  Website Administrator<br />
   www.tartan34classic.org]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Deane Holt</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 17 Apr 2011 06:34:05 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6064,6064#msg-6064</guid>
            <title>Mildew Problem Solved (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6064,6064#msg-6064</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi All - The winter of 2009-2010 Sandy and I put a winter cover on Indra - It did a great job of protecting her but also created a bad mildew problem in the cabin. This year we used a product called Damp Away - we got it from Jamestown Distributors - We put a few in the cabin, one in the head and one in the V berth and didn't have any problem with mildew. I am sure many of you already know about Damp Away but for those who don't it works great!<br />
Thanks!!<br />
Brian Lusted<br />
Indra #341]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Brian Lusted, Sandy Miller Hays</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 15 Apr 2011 09:30:20 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6058,6058#msg-6058</guid>
            <title>Centerboard Pivot Pin Bronze Bushing port side (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6058,6058#msg-6058</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Who has done the R &amp; R of the bronze bushing that the port side of the cernterboard pivot pin rides in? I am in process since there was a lot of slop in the fit. I have redone the Square hole in the centerboard (machined out the original bronze insert in the board and welded in a 316 ss insert with the square hole)and the pin is in great shape. I have reamed the bronze bushing out some (currently at 27/32) The bushing is still in the keel. I could leave the original reamed out bushing in place and sleeve the bushing from the current i.d. but ideally I would like to make a new bushing since that results in a fairly thin walled sleeve. Anyone know the original o. d. of the bushing?<br />
Was it Deane Holt that went thru this process? I home store my Tartan, do all of my own work on the boat and have good machine shop capability at home.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bill Jones</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 15 Apr 2011 07:09:41 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6049,6049#msg-6049</guid>
            <title>Electric Bilge pump discharge location (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6049,6049#msg-6049</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi All,<br />
<br />
Our T34C presently has no electric bilge pump. It does have a typical manual pump that discharges into the two aft cockpit drain lines....thus I do need another system to keep the boat dry.<br />
<br />
She has an unused seacock, which is the larger of the two seacocks under the head sink ,typically used for head discharge. I now have a Nature's Head installed and am now looking for a use for that &quot;extra&quot; seacock&quot;.  Is it worth considered using this below the water line seacock for bilge discharge...as long as I have an appropriate vented loop? Anyone use this method?<br />
<br />
The more conventional approach would  be install a new through hull somewhere above the waterline. If this is the case, I have many  more options for placement...perhaps too many. Where have some of you installed your bilge pump discharge through hull?<br />
<br />
Many thanks in advance,<br />
<br />
Greg Myers (Quaesita #428)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Greg Myers</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 02 Apr 2011 10:51:11 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6041,6041#msg-6041</guid>
            <title>Need info on a 34c in Boston area (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6041,6041#msg-6041</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello everyone! Spring is upon us and I am patiently looking for a deal on a 34c. I came across an ad today and was wondering if anyone has information on this boat, or would be able to take a quick look at her if they live in the area. The ad link is:<br />
 http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/2287390977.html<br />
<br />
If anyone could give me any information I would greatly appreciate it.<br />
<br />
Mark]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mark Tisdale</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 2011 08:50:22 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6040,6040#msg-6040</guid>
            <title>New Fuel Tank (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6040,6040#msg-6040</link>
            <description><![CDATA[We've just replaced the diesel tank, which was another unexpected project. <br />
<br />
Reports from the previous owner indicated that it seemed to be in good condition, and a quick pressure test by Dutchwharf Boatyard did not indicate any problems. However, we were leery of keeping the old tank, and decided to replace it while we have everything opened up down below...so we can start out with the new Yanmar with a new tank, and also not worry about leak damage. <br />
<br />
When we pulled it out, it was clear that the tank was on (or past) its last leg...pressure tests not withstanding. Perhaps the mounts were holding everything in place, but once removed, there were holes visible clear through the tank in numerous places, as well as considerable rust along the seams.<br />
<br />
We had a new tank manufactured locally out of a heavier gauge aluminum, which will be installed soon as part of the repower.<br />
<br />
Pictures are available at the link below:<br />
http://mattandalex.smugmug.com/Tartan34cRestoration/Diesel-Tank/16368878_cDXbw<br />
<br />
Matt &amp; Alex<br />
#331 (awaiting new name)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 28 Mar 2011 17:26:53 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6039,6039#msg-6039</guid>
            <title>Centerboard Lifting Mechanism Rebuild (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6039,6039#msg-6039</link>
            <description><![CDATA[We've just finished the repair and reassembly of the centerboard lifting mechanism at Dutchwharf Boatyard in Branford, CT. We thought originally this would be a quick and easy &quot;put it together&quot; type of project, but as we got into it, it ended up being a pretty complex effort in order to do it right.<br />
<br />
We worked primarily off the technical articles and instructions that were available from the site. First, all the old cables, turnbuckle, sheave block, turning blocks, and winch mechanism were removed. A number of pins were corroded and had to be drilled out, and sheaves freed up and lubed.<br />
<br />
The cable winch had a number of worn parts that had to be re-machined in order to be able to set the proper tension on the bolts. We also had a new pin machined by a local company since the previous pin was fairly pitted with a few other problems. Also, the exterior plate around the winch was machined new.<br />
<br />
The stuffing box had damaged threads which were repaired, and the box was repacked for the pivot. <br />
<br />
New cable was ordered, ends assembled and soldered, and all was put back together using the original spring and arm (lifting lever), new pin, repaired winch, and otherwise new parts. Our winch was missing, so Dutchwharf found a similar around the shop, modified it to fit, and added a new handle.<br />
<br />
Pictures are available at the link below:<br />
http://mattandalex.smugmug.com/Tartan34cRestoration/Centerboard/16368439_PfjUB<br />
<br />
Matt &amp; Alex<br />
#331 (awaiting new name)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 27 Mar 2011 17:10:36 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6037,6037#msg-6037</guid>
            <title>Do you have a bow roller? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6037,6037#msg-6037</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi all,<br />
<br />
Does anyone have any advice on installing a bow roller for forward anchor mounting? I've read through the two or three threads from years back which have some ok leads, but no solution that we're thrilled about.<br />
<br />
We ordered a pair of bow chocks that we'll install as part of the project, and want to make sure we have everything laid out (bow roller, chocks, cleats) together in optimal configuration. The pulpit mounts on our boat are flush to the deck and pinched close to together which makes it tight space to work with. <br />
<br />
I've attached a picture that shows the current set up.<br />
<br />
Grateful for any advice! In particular, would love to see any pictures and hear any recommendations (model names/numbers) for rollers that work well.<br />
<br />
Thanks!<br />
<br />
Matt &amp; Alex<br />
Hull #331 (still awaiting new name)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Tue, 12 Apr 2011 06:35:23 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6031,6031#msg-6031</guid>
            <title>Pressurized Cold &amp; Hot Water (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6031,6031#msg-6031</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Once we made the decision to install the head with a pressurized fresh water flush option (see post &quot;Head &amp; Holding Tank Installation&quot; in &quot;Projects &amp; Photos&quot;), we needed to do some upgrades to our fresh water system.<br />
<br />
Previous configuration was the standard water tank under starboard settee, with hoses to manual hand pumps at galley and head sinks. Hoses were old and in need of replacement and pumps were unusable, so we kept the tank but otherwise basically started from scratch on this as well.<br />
<br />
**Pressurized Water**<br />
Ran new water line from tank to filter and pump mounted on back bulkhead in the storage area under the galley sink. Used ITT 594511012 Ultra Max WPS 3.8GPM-12V water pressure unit.<br />
<br />
Lines split off to cold water supply to pressurized galley faucet; to manual foot pump faucet in galley for back-up use; water intake for toilet flush; and pressurized head faucet. <br />
<br />
**Hot Water**<br />
Once we added the pressurized water, it made sense to add hot water as well even though this wasn't in our original plan. Since we are doing a repower and adding all new plumbing, the marginal effort to send the extra lines and do the configuration was only about 8 hours extra effort. Since we always seem to be out in the cold and rain, the thought of a hot rinse was too much to pass up, so we added a 6 gallon hot water heater on the &quot;pre-existing&quot; shelf back in the stowage area under the cockpit. <br />
<br />
The hot water heater is ATW 93891 Water Heater 6 Gallon 110V. It will be powered off the heat from the engine, with a secondary option to run off shore power when available.<br />
<br />
**Cockpit Shower**<br />
The hot water  is plumbed to both faucets (head and galley), as well as to a cockpit shower installed just forward of the tiller post on the port side. The cockpit shower was located to fit just behind the bulkhead so that it's out of view from the quarter-berth (e.g. the hose dangles into the storage area aft of the berth). We used an ITC 701003 from Defender Industries, which is stainless steel and seems to be of good solid construction.<br />
<br />
Have yet to pick out the rest of the faucets.<br />
<br />
Pictures are available at the link below:<br />
http://mattandalex.smugmug.com/Tartan34cRestoration/Tartan-34c-Pressurized-Hot/16265948_6aV8F<br />
<br />
Matt &amp; Alex<br />
#331 - 1973 Yawl in need of new name!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 16:42:14 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6029,6029#msg-6029</guid>
            <title>Head and Holding Tank Installation (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6029,6029#msg-6029</link>
            <description><![CDATA[We're underway with the restoration of #331 (currently in search of a new name), at Dutch Wharf Boatyard in Branford, CT. As we make our way through all the various projects, we're going to try to upload pictures and progress as we go. <br />
<br />
We started with a new head and holding tank installation. When the boat came to us, it was a pretty open slate with nothing installed and just empty space to work with, so the project meant new toilet, plumbing, holding tank, pumps, pump out, etc.<br />
<br />
**Toilet**<br />
We researched lots of toilet options and debated between composting head, regular manual toilet, and electric toilet. We opted not to do the composting head since we did not care for the appearance of the gray composite material, having to carry the liquids to shore, and also since we will frequently have guests aboard &amp; didn't feel like it was the most user-friendly of choices -- didn't want to explain to guests the coffee filter and crank the pot logistics! <br />
<br />
We also weren't keen on the complications of manual toilets for guests, or the complexity of the electrical toilets with their own risks of more things to go wrong, but Practical Sailor came out with a series of reviews on how the technology of electric toilets has progressed dramatically...right as we were making our choice. <br />
<br />
In the end, we went with their recommendation for the Raritan Marine Elegance - high quality construction, excellent performance, clean sleek white china bowl, relatively easy installation, and very water efficient. They come in various options - regular or short height for mounting on a step/pedestal; fresh water or sea water or both (we chose this to allow a fresh water flush at the end of a trip to keep odors down for the week); straight or slanted back; etc. Best part about it was that it comes with low water options to flush the tank with just a fraction of what a manual toilet requires (and saves you from guests who just pump away). Defender Industries had the best pricing that we found. <br />
<br />
**Installation**<br />
Dutch Wharf built a wooden step to raise the toilet to the right height, and fit the space. It was epoxied and then painted a soft white to match the space and for ease of cleaning. All the plumbing was fitted under the step itself. The macerator is built into the back of the toilet so is a relatively straight-forward installation. All of the electronics were wired in under the vanity sink and mounted on the starboard-facing panel - including the fresh/sea water selector switch and flush control panel.<br />
<br />
**Holding Tank**<br />
We used a 32 gallon holding tank from Ronco (B141) on the advice of fellow tartan owner Alfred Poor, which fit nicely into the port v-berth. Plumbing runs from under the toilet, through behind the sink vanity, through the forward bulkhead, and into the tank. All holes/fittings for the tank were installed into the top with dip tubes to eliminate the chances of leaks from bottom-installed fittings. The holding tank is plumbed with a Y to a deck pump out for primary use, or to a diaphragm overboard pump via through hull for off shore emptying.<br />
<br />
**Pumps**<br />
A sea-water intake pump came included with the Raritan Marine Elegance for flushing, which was mounted as far up as possible on the port side below the sink. A diaphragm pump is attached via the holding tank - ITT508901 for overboard emptying of the holding tank off shore.<br />
<br />
**Tank Monitor**<br />
We installed a Dometic Tank Watch IV for holding tank monitoring. The display unit was installed next to the electrical in the nav. station for easy visibility. Purchased the 45&quot; (can cut to appropriate length), un-vented version (since the tank itself already had a vent fitting). <br />
<br />
We'll add pictures as the finishing touches are put into place. <br />
<br />
Pictures are available at the gallery linked below. <br />
http://mattandalex.smugmug.com/Tartan34cRestoration/Tartan-34c-Restoration/16265831_CV7pd<br />
<br />
Matt &amp; Alex<br />
#331 (Yawl) - in search of a new name!]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Matthew Bennett</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:25:00 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6027,6027#msg-6027</guid>
            <title>chainplate replacement (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,6027,6027#msg-6027</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Has anybody replaced the lower shroud chainplates? On my boat under the deck in the location where the chainplate goes through, all that you can see is a half round shaped fiberglass bulge under the deck, like half of a grapefruit. Does anybody know what's in there? What sort of fitting it is? How could it possibly be removed? I'm concerned that over the years corosion could have set in. The upper shroud chainplate is very straight forward - chainplate is bolted to a knee, but the lowers are a mystery to me. Does anybody have any knowlege of this?<br />
Dave Santos<br />
Hull #18]]></description>
            <dc:creator>David Santos</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:28:56 -0700</pubDate>
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        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6022,6022#msg-6022</guid>
            <title>Winch Replacement (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6022,6022#msg-6022</link>
            <description><![CDATA[I am replacing the winches on Sable, #198, this spring.  Out go the the old Barient 22's to be replaced with new Lewmar 46 self tailers.  After removal of the old Barients the area under them is about 1/16th proud from the rest of the teak covering the  winch island.  I intend on sanding this fair with the rest of the teak and filling the old bolt holes with epoxy before installing the new Lewmars.  My question to the list is...do I need to do anything else to reinforce this area befor installing the new winches?  Enquiring minds want to know.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Les Hester</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 17 Apr 2011 13:02:51 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6020,6020#msg-6020</guid>
            <title>Center board cable replacement (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6020,6020#msg-6020</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Anyone ever replaced the centerboard cable with a synthetic line? I am talking about an ultra low stretch (less than steel) stronger, more abrasion and flex resistant, made as a replacement for wire. It sounds do able. Anyone tried line?<br />
Dave<br />
hull #18]]></description>
            <dc:creator>David Santos</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 17 Apr 2011 16:03:28 -0700</pubDate>
        </item>
        <item>
            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6014,6014#msg-6014</guid>
            <title>atomic 4 to Diesel upgrades (11 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6014,6014#msg-6014</link>
            <description><![CDATA[As I contemplate  upgrading from the Atomic 4 to a diesel type engines, I would like to ask Tartan readers to share opinions as to what diesels  they have and how much the original  motor stringers had to be modified to except the upgrade engine.  Are any particular diesels able to  fit the atomic type engine stringers better then others? <br />
<br />
<br />
Best,<br />
Denny Ray<br />
S/V Aleta  #120]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Denny Ray</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 09:51:32 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6003,6003#msg-6003</guid>
            <title>Voyage of the Vidora (NC to NZ) (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,6003,6003#msg-6003</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi All,<br />
<br />
A few years ago, friends of mine took their T34C from North Carolina to New Zealand. Their voyage is chronicled pictorially on line at:  http://johannasuhonen.com/<br />
<br />
Their boat, Vidora Hull #145 proved to be a very capable global cruiser.<br />
<br />
I have benefited from their experience and I hope you do too. Enjoy the pictures.<br />
<br />
Greg Myers<br />
(Quaesita #428)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Greg Myers</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 13:11:54 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6001,6001#msg-6001</guid>
            <title>Down East Challenge (4 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6001,6001#msg-6001</link>
            <description><![CDATA[The Marblehead YC runs a low key event called the Down East Challenge, an overnight race to Rockland ME.  When two of my racing/sailing friends agreed to do the race with my son Reid and me we set our Maine cruise around the race “delivery”.  Celeste my wife would drive to Maine with the dingy and a week’s provisions, after the race the crew would drive the car back to our home where they’d left their cars.  Adelaide needed a few safety items to comply with the rules.  Most items such as lower lifeline, harnesses, and jack lines, are a good idea anyways.  We’ve been out in some conditions where had I had gone overboard Celeste and Reid would have had difficulty getting me aboard. <br />
<br />
The race starts from Marblehead at 1000 Saturday with a finish time limit of 1600 Sunday.  This years race is July 23/24.  We were to leave Newcomb’s Whistle and Thatcher’s Island day marker to port then straight across to Rockland ME.   Adelaide was rated the second slowest boat in the fleet with a Freedom 32 rated slower.  The fastest boat would have to beat us to Rockland by six hours!  The start was delayed a half hour waiting for wind, which built slowly from the SE.  By dusk it was blowing 15 so we were on a close reach at hull speed until being becalmed off Mohegan Island at five in the morning.  That night gave us a great sail with our competitors a Morris 36 to weather and ahead, and the Freedom 32 astern their running lights showing most of the night.  We had not expected to keep visual contact with other racers, but it added to the drama and incentivized us to check the telltales more frequently.<br />
<br />
0500 Sunday morning brought Mohegan Island abeam but a windless thunderstorm came through with buckets of rain and thick fog as I stood at the chart table trying to anticipate the best way to Rockland.  As the storm passed a light northerly filled in so we went on port tack towards Matinicus Island then tacked to the North of Large Green Island fetching Owls Head.  I tracked our progress electronically in the fog while making coffee and oatmeal for the cold wet crew on deck.  My son Reid was still asleep, out cold from 2200 to 0700.  Lucky him I’d gotten can naps through the night in the cockpit, while my friends each got a four hour sleep below.  As Large Green Island drew abeam our northerly died going southerly as the land warmed.  We sat becalmed this time in the hot sun as patchy fog obscured parts of Penobscot Bay.  As the southerly filled in we first winged the jib then set the spinnaker for what was now a run to Owls head.  We cheered when the Morris 36 her chute flying appeared astern, she had disappeared in the early morning hours a mile or so ahead.  Our imagination had led us to believe that they and the faster boats had carried the SE breeze right into Rockland as we sat becalmed, but in fact most of the fleet saw the same conditions.  The fastest boats finishing hours ahead had to navigate the same calm and fog but in the dark too.  As we approached Owls Head it was clear we’d sail into a fog bank with spinnaker flying, not the prudent seamanship I’d learned dead reckoning in my youth, but with radar and GPS picking up G11 off of Monroe Island, and a bold shore around Owls head we carried the spinnaker further.  As we passed G11 though the visibility was down to a boat length so we elected to drop the chute and jib reach into Rockland harbor where in typical Maine fashion it was clear.  We recorded our GPS time off the break wall to later call in to the race committee.<br />
<br />
The fastest boats in the race had finished around 0900 and us around 1300.  We ended up 7th out of the 15 competitors on corrected time.  It was a great 27 hours underway with my son and friends.  We’d seen a Blue Fin Tuna jump clear out of the water some 20 feet away, and a whale as we rounded Cape Ann.  While not contenders in the race, it was a fun challenge to sail the entire 130 nm race course without powering.  Had this been a cruising passage we undoubtedly would have motored from Mohegan into Rockland and for that matter Marblehead to Cape Ann.<br />
<br />
Celeste then arrived with dingy and provisions, we swapped crews and headed to the Rockland YC to exchange stories.  We were in good company, the owners of the Morris 36 had lived aboard for a year crossing the Atlantic and cruising in Europe.  The captain of the Freedom 32 was single handing and had crossed the Atlantic himself.  All three boats had enjoyed the proximity of each other, a silent fraternity that Saturday night.<br />
<br />
I think it’d be great to have other T34C’s included next year.  The MYC and RYC have a dinner Friday and Sunday evening.  Boats from the Portland and Penobscot bay area made the trip to Marblehead just to race back, others went cruising as we did.  The camaraderie made the long stretch to Penobscot Bay a pleasurable experience.  Let me know if you’re interested in going in 2011 and/or if you have any questions about it.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Eliot Shanabrook</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 09 Feb 2011 13:00:54 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6000,6000#msg-6000</guid>
            <title>Spade Anchor for Sale (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,6000,6000#msg-6000</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Sorry for posting in the forum, but it seems that not many folks make it to the classifieds. I just put up an ad for an unused Spade S80 aluminum anchor if anyone is interested in a lightweight anchor designed for boats up to 35'.]]></description>
            <dc:creator>David Cochran</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2011 19:36:44 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5996,5996#msg-5996</guid>
            <title>Aletas media link (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5996,5996#msg-5996</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi all, thought i would post my media link to Aleta hull #120 .      [ just copy and past the below link in to your browser]  <br />
<br />
http://aleta-53.smugmug.com/Other/Aleta/15190041_c8iQw#1164339413_DaEG8<br />
<br />
<br />
I have a passion for messing around with boats :-)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Denny Ray</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 04 Feb 2011 15:24:31 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5987,5987#msg-5987</guid>
            <title>GPS chart plotter to be mounted with a T34C and tiller (10 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5987,5987#msg-5987</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi All,<br />
<br />
Any of you out there with a tiller and an idea on where to mount a gps chart plotter? I would love your ideas.<br />
<br />
Kind regards,<br />
<br />
Greg Myers (Quaesita #428)]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Greg Myers</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 01 Apr 2011 09:47:36 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5984,5984#msg-5984</guid>
            <title>Bow Chock Replacement (5 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5984,5984#msg-5984</link>
            <description><![CDATA[This is a project contemplated but never done. George Colligan put together a group order of bronze bow chocks which, I believe, he installed on Temujin. My replacements were going to be part of a stem redesign and addition of a bow roller. It never made it to the top of the list. The chocks are for sale in the T34 classified section.<br />
http://www.t34classic.org/index.php?option=com_aardvertiser&amp;id=18&amp;task=viewad<br />
David]]></description>
            <dc:creator>David Cochran</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Mon, 28 Mar 2011 18:17:46 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5981,5981#msg-5981</guid>
            <title>Repowering Questions (no replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?3,5981,5981#msg-5981</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Happy New Year to All<br />
<br />
I was hoping that the A4 would last another couple of seasons to put off the inevitable but I had constant overheating under load and a host of other minor engine problems this season. This is after having spent some not inconsiderable money upgrading water pump, thermostat, hoses, exhaust, etc. <br />
<br />
The way I see it now is I have 3 choices. <br />
<br />
1. Stay with what I've got. I can hope to get some of the scale out with acid flushing but may actually create just as many problems as I solve with that. This is the only option that is within my budget. <br />
<br />
2. Repower with an A4. Probably the least work in man hours. I can drive my current A4 out to their machine shop and pick up a new one. Also, the least in cost. Seems to be around 5k for this solution. <br />
<br />
3. Repower with diesel. Not really sure of the benefits of going with diesel aside from increased range on my tank. Cost is very high around 10k and workload in man hours will be more. <br />
<br />
My questions are these:<br />
<br />
Who out there has repowered with an A4 from Moyer Marine? Real cost? Any suggestions? Are you happy with it? <br />
<br />
For those of you who have made the switch to diesel: What else is involved? Was it worth it? Any other modifications aside from mounting beds? Do you need a new shaft? Is there an increase in power?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Eric Lesnick</dc:creator>
            <category>Projects and Photos</category>
            <pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 09:14:50 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5976,5976#msg-5976</guid>
            <title>Repowering Choice (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5976,5976#msg-5976</link>
            <description><![CDATA[I just bought a 34c which came with an Atomic 4 of uncertain origin (it had been added to replace an engine with a broken block but was used and no idea what it came out of.)  I have access to a Yanmar 2GM in good shape and at a reasonable price.  Two questions. First will this be enough power for the boat (weekend use).  Second, does anyone have any experience with this switch?  I could fix the A4 per Good Old Boat this month as a second choice.  I am leaning toward doing it to get a probably more dependable engine and eliminate the gas.  What are thoughts?]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Kevin Donohue</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 08 Jan 2011 14:47:15 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5969,5969#msg-5969</guid>
            <title>Fluid Extractors (2 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5969,5969#msg-5969</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hi Everyone - I use a manual fluid extractor to get the oil out of the engine. When I changed the oil last weekend I noticed that it left quite a bit of oil in the engine. Are there better fluid extractors that would get more of the oil out?<br />
Thanks!!<br />
Brian Lusted<br />
Indra #341]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Brian Lusted, Sandy Miller Hays</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 22 Dec 2010 07:48:02 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5959,5959#msg-5959</guid>
            <title>Centerboard drawing? Fit of centerboard pin to centerboard? (1 reply)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5959,5959#msg-5959</link>
            <description><![CDATA[I thought that I would start a new topic on the centerboard in hopes of getting additional feedback. I am trying to find out what kind of fit Tartan originally called for the square on the centerboard pin to the square hole in the centerboard. In the references section of the website there are factory dimensioned drawings (Midwest Yacht Specialties) of the pin, plate and bellcrank arm but not the board itself.  My pin was in great shape so I made a guess at the pin square to board square hole at about .005&quot; fit.<br />
The factory drawing shows the square on the pin to be .875&quot;. My pin measured closer to .865&quot; maximum. Given the condition of the pin, It appears that that was the original dimension or maybe a replaced pin. There is a taper of about .005 to the square. The taper does not appear on the drawing but should help on reinstalling the board/pin.<br />
I have repaired my board in the same fashion as in Neal Musto's article. I had a new square hole donut waterjet cut out of 1 &quot; thick  316 ss with a hole dimesion of .870 to get my target .005 fit. I would really like to know what the original factory board square hole size was.  I could machine a little off the square on the pin if I am too tight on the fit.<br />
If anyone either has a new uninstalled board that could be measured, has access to an original centerboard drawing or has a good name/number to call at Tartan it would be really appreciated. <br />
Any help greatly appreciated.<br />
Bill]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bill Jones</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Wed, 08 Dec 2010 09:30:55 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5952,5952#msg-5952</guid>
            <title>New headsail 135 or 150? (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5952,5952#msg-5952</link>
            <description><![CDATA[My 150% genny which has been my almost everyday headsail for 12 years has to be replaced. My thinking had been to step back to a 135. In part my choice is influenced by my age. I am 66 years young and if I get 12 years out of a new headsail I will be 78. Hauling the 150 around tacking is starting to be more of a chore. I am a sailer that has a 2 knot rule. I know others fire up the iron genny a 4 knots or lower. Normally I will sail down to 2 knots over ground. My sailing grounds are the coast of Maine. I am coastal cruiser, not a racer and not interested in voyages. When I bought the Tartan 13 years ago from an older gent it had a beat 135 as the everyday jib. It was really too beat to fly. Full Circle, hull #116, is a long boom boat.<br />
What do you think? I will only buy 1 new &quot;everyday&quot; headsail. What have others done?<br />
Bill Jones <br />
Harpswell Maine]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Bill Jones</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sat, 11 Dec 2010 07:38:58 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5944,5944#msg-5944</guid>
            <title>Electrical wiring diagram (6 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?1,5944,5944#msg-5944</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Folks,<br />
I am new to the forum so hi.  I've just purchased a T34 and would like to get some basic information.  Does anyone know a source for an electrical wiring diagram.  Also any detail on the type of wiring that came on these boats originally? Mine is a 1971. Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated.  Thanks.<br />
-Kevin]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Kevin Donohue</dc:creator>
            <category>T34C Tech Forum</category>
            <pubDate>Sun, 09 Jan 2011 23:25:53 -0700</pubDate>
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            <guid>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,5938,5938#msg-5938</guid>
            <title>34c #90 information (3 replies)</title>
            <link>http://www.t34classic.org/Phorum/read.php?2,5938,5938#msg-5938</link>
            <description><![CDATA[Hello to everyone. I've followed many boards, but think I've decided to narrow my search to a 34c. I came across hull #90 for sale online, and was wondering if anyone has any information on it. I'd also be interested in knowing of any 34c's that are at a bargain/basement price. I don't mind doing some restoration, but the price needs to be decent.(and on the east half of the USA.)<br />
I look forward to hearing from you all, and would love to make it over to the East Coast to visit.<br />
<br />
Mark]]></description>
            <dc:creator>Mark Tisdale</dc:creator>
            <category>General Discussion</category>
            <pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 10:48:05 -0700</pubDate>
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